Daily Logs

The Log of M/V Wandering Star

Daily Logs

Excerpts from the Captain's Log: Leg III - Skagway to Seattle

Leg III - Skagway to Seattle

Monday 7/22 Skagway to Bridget Cove

Latitude: 58:38.43 N Longitude: 134:57.32 W

Weather: clear, sunny Wind: 180⁰ 10 kts. Barometer: 1007

Engine Hours: 297 Fuel on Board: 536

Trip Distance/Total: 52/1851

It’s a beautiful day to leave Skagway and start our journey south. Hard to understand why more cruising boats don’t come up this far north. We only saw one or two in the five days we spent between Haines and Skagway. I think the area gets a bad rap because of the long north-south axis of the Lynn Canal. With the prevailing south wind, the channel can get very rough on the northern end. This can be easily avoided by timing passage for early morning hours and low winds with stops in Boat Harbor or Bridget Cove on the way up and back. The towns of Haines and Skagway were certainly worth the effort and are two of the best stops in Alaska as far as we were concerned.

Away from the dock in Skagway by 0730 to take advantage of the falling tide as we head down the canal. At the bend by Haines, we passed Dottie & Ken on Dreamweaver heading for our just vacated slip in Skagway. As you may recall, we separated for a couple of weeks so they could see Sitka while we came up here. Not wanting to miss this great area, they decided to make the long run from Sitka all the way up here for a couple of day before heading home for Big Bear next week. Jo and I will move WS to Sitka with Heather and Ted next week.

Gill netters are the challenge of the afternoon as we approach Bridget Cove. At least twenty to thirty boats literally have nets strung everywhere. Not seeing the nets is the worry as they are hard to spot in the afternoon flat light and wind waves. We weave our way carefully through them but not without some help of the guys on the fishing boats.

What we didn’t plan on was all of these same fishing boats joining us in the tiny anchorage in Bridget Cove later in the evening. What chaos. With little swinging room for our relatively big boat on a hundred foot of chain, some of the little boats anchored as close as 25 feet away. It was a sleepless night mostly spent waiting to fend off shape edged fishing boats to save the nice new blue paint on WS.

Thankfully, it was a quiet night with no wind or current to disturb the delicate balance of the cove. Everyone stayed in place basically with the weight of the anchor chains keeping us all in position. I spent the night in the pilot berth reading and waiting for the crunch that never came.

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Tuesday 7/23 Bridget Cove to Auke Bay, Juneau

Latitude: 58:22.00 N Longitude: 134:40.77 W

Weather: rain Wind: 180⁰ 10 kts. Barometer: 1014

Engine Hours: 304 Fuel on Board: 514

Trip Distance/Total: 21/1872

The fishing fleet started to ease out of the anchorage at 4 AM. One by one they marched out and took their places stringing their gill nets across the entire eastern side of the channel. By 8:30 we are on our way as well. Extreme care must be taken to spot the ends of the nets and head around the floating 50 yards of propeller trap. It is a time of constant vigilance for both crew members until we finally clear of the fleet about half way down the Lynn Canal.

From then on it is an easy run back to Auke Bay. As WS rounds the last turn, we are stunned to see the entire outer breakwater lined with mega yachts. Ice Bear, Constellation, and Mr. Terrible (Terrible Herbst gas stations) plus several new additions are all there like it’s a boat show for the really big guys. Naturally, we assume with all these big spaces taken, the inner transient docks must be jammed so we are very anxious as we approach the entrance. Being full would mean a long, 6-hour trip around the island to Juneau’s downtown docks.

It does look full at first but Jo notices a space just big enough for WS on the end of a dock if we can just scoot a small boat back about four feet so we head for it post haste. Once attached and barely fit, I notice a whole inside tie unoccupied and closer in which will be perfect for the five nights we need to be here and give space for Dreamweaver too once we leave. So I run back, drop the just placed dock lines, and single hand WS over while Jo holds down the new spot.

The rain never stops all day so we still take our walk, clean WS inside, and have a great Buffalo burger dinner at the sandwich shop at the top of the ramp.

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7/24 to 7/27 On the dock in Auke Bay

Much to do these next couple of days. Wandering Star needs a cleanup form stem to stern, store runs including Costco, propane, routine maintenance. The crew needs personal maintenance, to see a real movie, and take a break from cruising with friends Mark and Susan Ohlendorf who are coming in by cruise ship on Wednesday, and the arrival of Heather and Ted on Thursday night.

We took our guests up to Mendenhall Glacier for hiking and to see this Juneau landmark. It was quite a bit smaller that when we fist saw it 28 years ago but still spectacular. We ran into our first close encounter with a black bear on a trail as we hiked. A sow and two cubs had been in the area earlier just hanging out up in a tree but this old guy was just coming down the paved walk till he saw us and wandered off into the bushes.

We also did a couple of more tours of the Alaskan Brewery where we are now considered “locals.” Provisioning all done, dock bills paid, water on board and we are ready to travel.

With the Ohlendorfs in Juneau

Heather & Ted join our crew

7/28 Saturday Auke Bay to Coot Cove in Funter Bay

Latitude: 58:15.32 N Longitude: 134:54.32 W

Weather: cloudy becoming sunny late Wind: 180 ⁰ 8 kts. Barometer:1010

Engine Hours: 308 Fuel on Board: 502

Trip Distance/Total: 24/1896

Heather and Ted on board after a great day sight seeing in Juneau. Some of the best weather we have had and we certainly hope it continues. Off the dock by 9:00 AM on a busy morning in the harbor as all of the locals take advantage of the good weekend weather to do some boating too.

The run over to Funter Bay is smooth with only the occasional parked fishing boat to make us change our course. We did encounter another small pod on humpbacks feeding off the far side of Douglas Island though which always makes for a pause in the travel plans. H & T have seen all of the basic Alaska wildlife; bears, salmon spawning, eagles and whale as well as a Glacier in just two days.

Once tucked back into Coot Cove in Hunter Bay as far as we can go and set the anchor, we drop the dinghy and lower the crab trap off the stern. We try our hand at trolling for salmon with no luck but do better with catching both small crabs and baby halibuts on our new clam shell style crab trap. This traps life was short lived however as Ted slipped off the swim step into the 50 degree water and lost the fishing pole with the attached said crab trap. Luckily the chair that feel in with him and hit his head did not do too much damage and he was able to climb back on board colder but still under his own power.

Without any crabs, we switched to blackened Ahi for appetizers to go with our BBQ chicken. Rummy cubes took up the evening’s entertainment portion with all to bed by 11PM. A small rain squall came through that woke me with the wind waves across the bay at about 1 AM but the winds did not get much over 12 knots and the Rocna held us fast even though we swung 180 degrees from our set direction.

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7/29 Sunday Funter Bay to Hoonah

Latitude: 58:06.72 N Longitude: 135:27.25 W

Weather: sunny Wind: 180 ⁰ 5 kts. Barometer:1011

Engine Hours: 312 Fuel on Board:493

Trip Distance/Total: 24/1917

Slow to get going this morning for the short ride over to Hoonah. We had to get the dinghy back on board after we collected a nice legal crab from our crab trap for tonight’s appetizers. Heather spotted a deer just standing by the stream off our stern too.

Up anchor at 9:15 with a very low tide and motored out of the cove into the Lynn Canal. It is nice and smooth today even with the steady winds of last evening’s rain squalls. As we approach the point to turn into Hoonah and pass a working purse seiner, the Holland American cruise ship can be seen at anchor off Cannery Point. Cruise ships are good in Hoonah as that means the old Cannery will be open for visitors today and that’s exactly where we head as soon as Harbormaster Paul has us secure in a guest slip.

Afternoon is spent having lunch and shopping at the Cannery with the cruise ship tourists before returning to WS for an afternoon of individual activities, cooking and enjoying our crab, followed by a halibut dinner on board and an evening of Texas Hold’em

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7/30 Monday Hoonah to Tenekee Springs

Latitude: 57:46.64 N Longitude: 135:09.48 W

Weather: overcast Wind: 180 ⁰ 15 kts. Barometer: 1014

Engine Hours: 321 Fuel on Board: 487

Trip Distance/Total: 44/1961

Looks like the good weather is gone again. Thankfully, the weather map shows a high with fair weather coming in by Wednesday. Today it is heavy overcast, windy in the straits with lumpy seas. We’re away by 0800 with walks and morning runs already done. It’s pretty quiet on the water till we hit the upper section of Chatham Straits where the wind is on the nose and the current turns against us.

Things calm down as we make the turn up Tenekee Inlet till we reach Tenekee Springs but it picks up again for our arrival and docking. This marina is little more than a floating semi-breakwater behind a small indent in the shoreline so protection in minimum. Bruce, the dockmaster, is down to greet us as soon as we are secure to collect his 40 cents a foot.

No real town here, just a rock path along the hill with a bakery and a mercantile as the only business in the area. Tenekee Springs is mainly a summer get away vacation spot of 2^nd home cabins for the folks in Juneau. Even the springs are basically just a two room bath house were no suits are allowed so guys use it in the afternoon and ladies in the evening. Not much in the way of a family or a mixed couples soak is possible.

We walk the mile long path and only turn around when it start to rain. Once back on board, I run into a problem with the generator not running due to a lack of oil pressure so we need to move WS to the other side of the docks complex to where shore power is possible as the batteries are quite low after not recharging since Juneau.

Heather and Ted have cooking duties tonight and do a great job of turning out a real Mexican Feast of steak fajitias with all the trimmings. It’s DVD movie night tonight after dinner till lights out.

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7/31 Tuesday Tenekee Springs to Deep Bay, Peril Straits

Latitude: 57:26.76 N Longitude: 135:38.04 W

Weather: overcast Wind: 030⁰ 10 kts. Barometer:1021

Engine Hours: 321 Fuel on Board: 373

Trip Distance/Total: 63/2025

Awake early for one last walk on the trail before our 8AM departure. It’s a long way to Deep Bay on the Peril Straits…some 60+ nautical miles or 9 hours on the water. Current will again be an important factor and the ship’s computer calculates the correct departure time using tides and current to get us there in the least amount of time.

It’s a great day for animal spotting; 10 humpback whales, 1 old grizzly bear, numerous porpoise, seals and jumping fish everywhere you look. The channel is much smoother this morning too. As we approach the Peril Straits, the falling tide kicks in perfectly to give us a 4-knot boast to our actual speed to over eleven knots as we approach Deep Bay.

Once we are secure in 50’ at the back of the long bay, we drop the dinghy for Ted and Heather to go off in search of crabs with the new instant gratification crag trap we made out of a large fish net. You just tie the bait in the center of the net, drop it down, wait 2 minutes then pull it up to see what crawled aboard. We’ve caught as many baby halibut as crabs but it does keep everyone busy.

Winds have died completely as predicted and the anchorage is glassy calm as the twilight slowly settles in for the evening. Dinner is followed by another rousing game of rummy cubes before resting for tomorrow’s last leg and the end of the voyage for Heather and Ted at Sitka.

Milestone: passed the 2000 mile point on WS today!

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8/1 Wednesday Deep Bay to Sitka

Latitude:57:03.34 N Longitude: 135:21.96 W

Weather: Fog becoming sunny Wind: 224 ⁰ 5 kts. Barometer: 1023

Engine Hours: 330 Fuel on Board: 323

Trip Distance/Total: 30/2054

I’m up at 5AM. I’m just not satisfied with last night calculations about the best departure time to best take advantage of the currents. Upon reworking the figures, it seems that 5:30 would be a better time to leave than the original plan of 7AM so I wake the crew and with all hands on deck we are still able to load the dinghy, look for the now lost crab trap which disappeared during the night, up anchor and be on our way be 6:30 AM.

It is very foggy in the straits as we head out from Deep Bay. With radar and the vigilance of our crew, we are able to pick our way up the narrow channel and maneuver around the oncoming traffic. The push from the current has us at speeds up to 11-knots so we quickly make up the hour we lost in the morning and hit the narrows perfectly at the height of a most favorable current.

By 9:30, Sitka’s suburbs are in site and by 10 AM we are waiting for our slip assignment from the harbormaster. New Thomsen Marina is huge and a very busy place. Sitka is active in commercial fishing, as a charter base, and the must see place for all cruising boats. Three to four cruise ships are in the harbor most days so town is very busy too.

As soon as WS is settled in her slip, the crew is off to explore the sights and have lunch ashore. It’s quite a little walk into the center of things but we manage to find the historic hill where Sitka began, the Sheldon Jackson Museum, St. Michaels Russian Church, and some great shops along the way. We like it so much we decide to come back into town again later for dinner at the nicest restaurant we can find before returning to WS for a final game of Rummy Cube.

Heather, Ted and Jo are all leaving for Big Bear in the morning for a family reunion. I’ll stay with WS and do the necessary maintenance while I wait the week for Jo’s return.

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8/2 to 8/8 On the dock in Sitka

With Jo back in Big Bear, I was able to dedicate my time to boat maintenance. Namely, change the oil and filters in both generator and main engine, clean WS from bow to stern inside and out, and make a bunch of subtle improvements like fix the leaking refrigerator door, add some hooks to hang stuff, do the laundry, and other fun stuff.

Once Jo returned, we took a day to re-provision the depleted frig after a long morning walk through town to the old fort site on a National Park trail. We then had an early farewell to Sitka dinner at Ludwig’s Mediterranean Bistro with nice Barbara. Dinner was followed by a DVD rental movie back on board.

It was a great 8-days in Sitka. The only dark spot was a private plane crash into a house about a quarter mile from the marina with no survivors. The home owner had just stepped out for a milkshake with friends or she would have been lost too.

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8/9 Thursday Sitka to Deep Bay

Latitude: 57:26.76 N Longitude: 135:38.04 W

Weather: overcast w some sunshine Wind: 340⁰ 8 kts. Barometer: 1018

Engine Hours: 334 Fuel on Board: 800

Trip Distance/Total: 33/2087

Well, the only way out of Sitka, without going out to sea in the Gulf of Alaska, is back the way we came through the Peril Straits. Again timing is everything, so using the ships tide/current computer, we figure the best time to leave to hit the Sergius Narrows at slack is 11:30 AM. That gives us the morning free to take a walk, refuel WS and take a last look at the Sitka waterfront, this time, from the water.

As we finally get underway and hit our first way point, we form a small parade with a sailboat and several fishing troller’s, all with the same idea and game plan. The 33-miles to Deep Bay are uneventful and we arrive at the narrows right on time at slack water. Once at anchor in exactly the same spot as a week ago with H & T, we decide to launch the dinghy and see if we can find the missing crab trap we had to leave last week because the buoy was submerged at high tide.

Low and behold there it is…right in line with the commercial guys traps about 20 yards off shore. It has moved a bit, it is still empty, of course (I think the commercial guys clean out any private traps), but still good to rescue the $100 worth of gear and we are very pleased. Ted will be especially happy too as he and Heather bought me a replacement trap and now they can get a refund.

While we are out with the dinghy, I set the new trap in again to try it but this time with plenty of line so high tide won’t be a problem when we leave in the morning. We don’t have to leave till 10AM tomorrow so we have a full evening of reading and enjoying DVD’s (I’m hooked on “24” which I never saw when it ran on TV and am now into the 3^rd season). We’ll leave the dinghy in for the night to check and retrieve the trap in the morning.

Fuel Data:

We were able to take on 311 gallons at $2.99/gal.with tax in Sitka. Some quick calculations show that WS is getting about 2.5 nautical miles to the gallon and we are averaging about 2.7 gallons per engine hour which is not at all bad considering we have moved our home and all our stuff on board 676 miles and seen some of the most incredible sights to be found anywhere, in comfort. We finally got a good read on the generator which is using just 1.2gallon/hour to make electricity and some of our water.

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8/10 Thursday Deep Bay to Ell Bay

Latitude: 57:11.96 N Longitude: 134:51.02 W

Weather: partly cloudy Wind: 285⁰ 5 kts. Barometer: 1017

Engine Hours: 340 Fuel on Board: 787 gallons

Trip Distance/Total: 48/2135

Three crabs in the trap this morning – none of them keepers but at least we know the new trap works. We take our time getting the dinghy up and having breakfast as the current doesn’t shift in our favor till afternoon. By 10:00 we are back in the channel heading east towards the Chatham Strait.

Today is the day we rejoin Dottie & Ken (D&K) on Dreamweaver (DW) with a prearranged rendezvous at Ell Bay later this afternoon. We are able to raise them on the radio as we enter Chatham and lean that they are still about 2-miles behind us as they come down from Juneau. It seems all of the mega yachts are out today as we pass Mr. Terrible, Black Diamond and several others including one with its own helicopter on the back deck. They are all busy running their owners and their guests around for several weeks holiday before the paid crew head them south for the winter too. Interesting to hear the crews talk on the radio about their future plans and it seems most will be in Costa Rico for the winter…just like WS.

Ell Bay is as beautiful an anchorage as we have found yet! A steep sided bowl shaped cove with pine trees right down to waters edge. As the first boat to arrive, we pick our spot tucked into the upper reaches of the dogleg right in 30 feet. DW arrives soon after a small French sailboat named BOS belonging to Jacque & Bernadette from Amsterdam anchors just off the entrance. Later, we have cocktails aboard BOS and learn they are 6-years into a world cruise leaving from the Med, through the Canal to Hawaii, then on to Kodiak and then over to Ell Bay. Their future plans include several more years cruising between Canada and the US in the PNW.

A late “it’s good to be together again” dinner is enjoyed aboard DW before turning in for the night.

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8/11 Saturday Ell Bay to Port Protection, Wooden Wheel Cove

Latitude: 56:1940N Longitude: 133:36.78W

Weather: early fog becoming sunny late Wind: 360 ⁰ 2 kts. Barometer: 1017

Engine Hours: 347 Fuel on Board: 767

Trip Distance/Total: 79/2214

Awake early to blue sky overhead only to be surprised by a thick, pea soup fog as we turn out of Ell Bay. It will be a good day to practice our radar skills as we could barely see DW at 1/8^th mile ahead. Off Point Gardner, Ken has a close encounter with a purse seiner (fishing boat) that did not show up on his radar screen and we have another trawler cut close between DW and WS when we were only ¼ mile apart that was never visible except on radar. Very eerie stuff indeed.

Fog is okay on open water but not an option when we get into close quarters. Just when we think we’ll need to stop for the day, the fog lifts and we are able to continue into the notorious Rocky Straits. This pass, which was closed for awhile because so many boats went aground, has been reopened with new navigation buoys and some dredging. While a couple spots are only 4 feet deep, we are able to push through on the falling tide before we would have hit bottom. A right angle turn named Devils Elbow gives us some excitement with about 2-knots of current pushing us towards the opposite shore as we round the hair pin bend. Coming this way saved us at least a day travel and an open water passage around the end of Kulu Island so all in all it is worth the added adventure.

Once through the 20-miles of rocks, sandbars, kelp, shallows and reefs we are able to make the easy run across Sumner Strait to our goal for the night, the apply named Port Protection – a small fishing village on the end of Prince of Wales Island. DW as the days lead boat gets tied up first to the public dock after some small boats are rearranged by the locals and WS is able to cozy in and raft up alongside.

It’s been a long day with 12-hours at sea and 79 miles under the keel so after a small celebration for surviving Devils Elbow, both crews turn in early to watch some DVD’s and wind down.

8/12 Sunday Port Protection to Craig

Latitude: 55:38.30 N Longitude: 133:24.36 W

Weather: sunny, warm Wind: 0 ⁰ 7 kts. Barometer: 1014

Engine Hours: 359 Fuel on Board: 738

Trip Distance/Total: 76/2290

Another day of torturous channels and winding narrow waterways. Today’s challenge is the El Capitan and the Tuxekan Passages, in places as narrow as 70-feet and only 6-feet deep (WS needs 5’ to float) and racing with tidal currents in both directions. Thankfully, we are getting rather good at this stuff and it holds no terror any longer. We just plot our course carefully and we both stay on full alert for the e-ticket ride.

The milestone to remember for today’s run was the bright blue, cloudless sky, and the all time high of 80 degrees in temperature- a 1^st for our Alaska adventure. It was bathing suits and up to the top deck for most of the afternoon.

Late in the day, as lead boat, we stop in Bob’s Place, just a wide spot in the channel in the lee of St Phillip’s island and drop the hook in 30-feet. Being nothing special as anchorages go, we decide to go on the last 10-miles to the town of Craig when D&K catch up on DW. This puts us into Craig rather late but still light and it feels good to get off and stretch our legs after the continuous 4-days on board since leaving Sitka.

The docks in Craig are rather rustic, geared mostly to the commercial fisherman’s needs and so are lacking in amenities but at this point we just need the shorebreak. BBQ Dinner for both crews is on WS before calling it a night to get some much needed rest before another big travel day tomorrow.

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8/13 Monday Craig to Nichols Bay

Latitude: 54:42.87 N Longitude: 132:07.68 W

Weather: clear, sunny Wind: 68⁰ 5 kts. Barometer: 1024

Engine Hours: 381 Fuel on Board: 706

Trip Distance/Total: 74/2365

Our final day in Alaska was spent cruising down the last of the western side of Prince of Wales Island heading for our jumping off point to cross the Dixon Entrance tomorrow. It was another clear and sunny day though not as warm as yesterday and the scenery has changed too. Gone already are the tall rugged, snow capped mountains replaced instead by lower, rounder pine tree covered hills.

Fellow cruising yachts have all but disappeared too but there are still lots of fishing boats as we travel down the Tlevak Straits and cross Cordova Bay. The strong current helps push us along most of the day with speeds hitting 11-knots at times.

The southern anchorage in Nichols Bay will be the stop for the night at the very end of the island. Here we are in the best position to head out into the Gulf of Alaska to cross over into Canada. It is a 69-mile run across open water so getting as close as possible is important. With weather predicted to get steadily worse towards the end of the week, we are glad we pushed the envelope a bit to get here as fast as we did.

The approaching night is perfectly still when we set the anchor on a somewhat rocky bottom in about 20’ of low tide water and shut down WS for the day. D&K joins us on our boat for “Farewell to Alaska” cocktails and it stretches out past dinner as we reminisce about the adventures we have had these past several months.

Southeast Alaska seems to have more of most things that appeal to all outdoor loving people. More beauty, more desolation, colder with more rain, more wildlife, and of course, more things to see and do, both on and off the water. Its’ cities and towns each have a distinct personality, especially those not tainted by the cruise ship visitors which force an element of sameness on the towns where they frequently stop. Fishing, both sport and commercial, is the one common denominator found most everywhere you go for it is the last viable industry besides tourism and oil up north that survives despite the tree hugger’s wrath.

One last look around at the quiet night as I switch on the anchor light although it is unlikely anyone else will be joining us tonight in our little bay…not many places left where you can have your own space anymore so it is to be relished for tomorrow we return to the multitudes of boaters that are frantically cruising around Canada as summer draws to a close.

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8/14 Tuesday Nichols Bay, USA to Prince Repurt, Canada

Latitude: 54:17.87 N Longitude: 130:21.18 W

Weather: fog Wind: 116 ⁰ 12 kts. Barometer: 1020

Engine Hours: 392 Fuel on Board: 654

Trip Distance/Total: 71/2437

Goodbye Alaska! It’s up anchor early for the long run across the Dixon Entrance to Prince Rupert and Canada. Within an hour of leaving our bay, we are plunged into thick fog with visibility of less than a couple hundred yards. The seas, while not exactly flat, are a manageable 3 to 4 feet on the starboard quarter most of the way. Except for a rough patch around the Celestial Reef, it is a fairly comfortable passage with little boat traffic and only the occasional log to worry about.

Late in the afternoon the fog lifts as we make the turn at the outer marker for Brown Passage and it is thankfully clear for the complex Venn Passage approach to PR. Getting into the harbor late makes it difficult to find any dock space on the public floats but we manage to tie up alongside a commercial fishing boat for the night that is about our size.

The first order of business is to call CanPass to report our arrival to customs and get our clearance number (200722260752) for our time in Canada. Next it’s the last few of our Alaskan Porter beers to celebrate our return to Canada followed by dinner on DW. A walk to the local pub for a nightcap feels good after a couple days at sea.

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8/15 Wednesday Prince Rupert to Patterson Inlet, Princess Diana Cove

Latitude: 53:27.44 N Longitude: 129:47.23 W

Weather: fog early becoming clear Wind: 66 ⁰ 17 kts. Barometer: 1013

Engine Hours: 392 Fuel on Board: 625

Trip Distance/Total: 66/2503

Needed to get started early as the fisherman we are tied too wants to leave the dock for a week long halibut run. Just as well as we have a few miles to go to get to Patterson Inlet – a must see stop for our two Patterson girls. Our early going was tough as we were in and out of thick fog in a narrow channel with lots of boats going in all directions.

Once clear of the Prince Rupert fog, we settled in for a nice day in the western most channels of Petrel and Principle. This is a remote section on the coast not popular with pleasure boaters so we see no one else all day. Logs are very prevalent again to the point of even needing to do so fancy maneuvers to get around long strings that almost block the entire channel.

Once we are get back the two mile entrance channel to the cove, the anchorage is beautiful. The sun is shining, blue skies, and 70 degrees so the rest of the afternoon is spent on deck in bathing suits enjoying a bit of real summer. Both crews are still a little tired from all of the long days so the party light will stay off tonight. It is early to bed after a hearty dinner and a couple of episodes of Northern Exposure.

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8/16 Thursday Patterson Inlet to Barnard Harbor

Latitude:53:03.80 N Longitude: 129.07.99 W

Weather: sunny to cloudy to rain Wind: 160⁰ 20 kts. Barometer: 1008

Engine Hours: 402 Fuel on Board: 595

Trip Distance/Total: 41/2544

Weather was the story of the day. We left Patterson Inlet in bright sun only to see it turn to dark clouds and finally rain as the day continued. The passage was easy with just a few wind waves on the nose to disturb the passage.

Barnard Harbor, while very remote, is best known for its two huge floating fishing hotels anchored in the adjacent cove. From our anchorage, though, all one can see is the pristine wilderness without a hint of the seasonal civilization that moves in next door for the summer.

Soon after the hook is set, the rain stops and both crews settle in for a nice evening of dining and DVD’s aboard WS. Just as it starts to get dark, a large black bear comes down to the water’s edge just behind WS to look for something to eat. We watch with fascination as he overturns rather large rocks with ease and looks for bugs underneath as he wanders along the shoreline.

Tomorrow we get back in the mainstream channel heading south as we get closer to the next open ocean passage across Queen Charlotte Sound.

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8/17 Friday Barnard Inlet to Bottleneck Inlet

Latitude: 52:42.65 N Longitude: 128:24.66 W

Weather: overcast Wind: 117⁰ 5 kts. Barometer: 1012

Engine Hours: 409 Fuel on Board: 577

Trip Distance/Total:

Current was the factor of the day – lots of it and mostly against us. At one narrow pass up to two knots going the wrong way. This is when you are glad you have the extra horsepower of the Cummings 305. When you need it you can pour on the power to push your way through most anything. Most of the voyage was an uneventful, long passage down the long channels with towering, tree covered mountains rising straight up on both sides.

DW went another route preferring to stay on the outside passage yet another day. We plan to meet up tomorrow at a small native town of Klemtu about 8-miles passed our stop for the night at Bottleneck.

As you might expect, Bottleneck Inlet has a narrow opening that opens into a long wide bay making it a perfect, well protected anchorage. We anchor all to ourselves in the back of the cove in about 30 feet of water with plenty of room to swing all directions.

8/18 Saturday Bottleneck Inlet to Sheerwater Resort

Latitude:52:08.92 N Longitude: 128:05.28W

Weather: early light rain becoming sunny Wind: 180 ⁰6 kts. Barometer: 1011

Engine Hours: 418 Fuel on Board: 548

Trip Distance/Total: 45/2652

Pulled up the anchor at first light. Our first mission is to rendezvous with DW again at Klemtu before 8AM. Then it was a fast run down Finlayson Channel with the current till the turn into Seaforth Channel where we finally joined our old track coming North months ago. Just after lunch, we rounded the bend and crossed the lagoon towards Sheerwater Resort and for the the first time in days, cell phones and internet connections all sprang to life.

By the time we finished a few quick calls home to be sure all was well (Heather just finished second in her first Triathlon this morning), we were ready to check in with the dockmaster at the resort. There is plenty of room so we head in and tie up to their long guest dock.

Afternoon was full of stretching our legs on land, cleaning out the small store, and doing some much needed laundry. Ken even managed to change the oil in DW while at anchor in the bay. Dinner was ashore at the local dockside restaurant where the food was terrible but both crews still enjoyed having someone else to do all the work.

Tomorrow will be our last stop for the middle third of our trip south, just before we cross the open waters of Queen Charlotte Sound on Monday morning.

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8/19 Sunday Sheerwater to Allison Harbor

Latitude: 51:03.53 N Longitude: 127:30.37 W

Weather: sunny Wind: 78 ⁰ 6-12 kts. Barometer: 1009

Engine Hours: 425 Fuel on Board: 528

Trip Distance/Total: 85/2738

Woke this morning thinking we only had a few miles to go today to be in position to cross the Queen Charlotte Sound tomorrow morning. We took our time taking a morning hike then ran over to Bella Bella to take on water (Sheerwater’s water is contaminated with resin) and even make a quick stop at the store. Departed just after 9:00 am and had started up the channel before we were able to get the sat site weather forecast that changed everything.

Tomorrow’s forecast was calling for gale force winds by afternoon and 3 to 6 foot seas, not the king of stuff to face out in the open gulf. A quick consult with DW and it was decided to go for the whole cross, 85-miles, all today. That would put us on the southern side of Cape Caution into a protected anchorage on the east side of the sound just before dark. So off we went doing max affordable speed (8 knots) for the next 12 hours.

The gulf crossing was like a lake. In fact I’ve seen Big Bear a lot rougher and the wind was all but calm the entire day. We managed to make the 1^st choice cove on the other side just as it was starting to get dark but found it very small, only 200’ wide, no room to swing on one hook and already full of three boats so needed to go on another 4-miles to Allison Harbor, a large, deep bay with plenty of anchor room. It was almost dark as we glided by one of the two boats already there and took our spot at the head of the bay in 20 feet over mud.

A quick dinner, movie and off to bed just as the rains came down but no wind so we’re looking forward to a quiet night.

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8/20 Monday Allison Harbor to Sullivan Cove

Latitude: 50:53.10N Longitude: 126:49.71W

Weather: rain Wind: 210⁰ 10 kts. Barometer: 1011

Engine Hours: 437 Fuel on Board: 484

Trip Distance/Total: 36/2774

No sign of the coming wind/waves as I eased out of Allison Harbor. Just a steady rain and a hint of fog. DW was just coming out of Skull Cove were they spent the night and we fell into place by the second waypoint. Queen Charlotte Straits were still as calm as the Sound was yesterday so the crossing went smoothly.

Making the turn up Wells Passage, we met with the Canadian Coast Guard doing fishing license checks of the small boats in the area but passed without notice. Turning into Sullivan Cove was a pleasant surprise of quaint floating houses, in fact a whole floating village all connected buy a complex of docks and moorage space for 30 or more boats. We are directed to a space and quickly tie up so we can explore the place on foot and have lunch in the Town Hall Café.

The first afternoon at leisure in recent memory was followed by more dock walking and eventually dinner on WS with D&K. Already the flavor of the trip has changed from the challenges and uncertainty of the north to the slower pace of the typical cruiser’s summer boating holiday.

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8/21 Tuesday Sullivan Bay to Lagoon Cove

Latitude: 50:35.93 N Longitude: 126:18.82W

Weather: overcast becoming sunny Wind: 164 ⁰15 kts. Barometer: 1018

Engine Hours: 449 Fuel on Board: 454

Trip Distance/Total: 39/2817

Another beautiful day in the Broughton Islands! Sun is shining and it is actually warm as we make our way through this boater’s paradise to our last “vacation” stop before the final dash to Seattle. A big old Black Bear is standing on a rock watching us go by as if to say goodbye as we pass dozens of tempting beautiful bays and anchorages.

Our stop for tonight will be Lagoon Cove, a rustic small marina that is everyone’s favorite that comes up here. It is run like an adult summer camp complete with happy hour/pot luck every night featuring fresh prawns caught daily, story time by Bill the owner, and even an evening campfire with marshmallow roast. Lot’s of fun and good meeting place as most yachts moving north or south stop here sooner or later.

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8/22 Wednesday Day of fun at Lagoon Cove.

Both crews decide to take a day off after the long trek south to do some hiking, fishing, crabbing and use the cove’s internet (amazing for a place that does not even have telephone service). Dinner is on board DW. It is a early night due to a before dawn departure in the morning.

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WS tucked in at lagoon Cove

8/23 Thursday Lagoon Cove to Campbell River

Latitude: 50:01.92 N Longitude: 125:14.53W

Weather: early fog becoming sunny Wind: 350⁰ 15 kts. Barometer:1016

Engine Hours: 459 Fuel on Board: 435

Trip Distance/Total: 67/2880

Up at 5AM for a 6:00 departure at first light. Several of the nice folks here are even up and about at this hour just to help us ease WS out of her tight mooring spot behind the guest dock.

Today is all about timing. We need to pass through the Chatham Narrows just beyond Lagoon Cove early before the current starts to flow and most important, be at the very dangerous Seymour Narrows, 50-miles down the Johnstone Strait, exactly at slack water at 3:18 PM. This takes some serious speed control as we are riding a strong ebb most of the day and don’t want to arrive early. The current in these narrows can get over 15- knots, much more than an 8-knot boat can handle.

The Johnstone Straits feel like the Mississippi, big and wide with lots of debris and strange currents. Most of the day we are traveling at less than 6 knots traveling behind a large paper mill barge with tug figuring it will want to hit the narrows at slack water as well. By the time we arrive, at least a dozen boats of all sizes have gathered at the entrance and we all pour through just before slack with about 2-knots of current.

Immediately after the narrows we come to the town of Campbell River and call in for dock space at Discovery Bay Marina. Luck would have it they have a nice end tie available and we are soon tied up and shut down for the night. This marina is handy to everything from marine stores to grocery markets and even several great restaurants. We decide to try the Riptide Pub as it has been doing some great marketing up and down the waterway and were not disappointed. D&K join us for cocktails before dinner.

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8/24 Friday Lay day in Campbell River

Took a day off to make some calls, get some chores done, and clean a very salty boat. We want to look good for our return to civilization next week. We’ll leave DW here to do some bottom work on the tidal grid and catch up again before we head south down the Pacific Coast

8/25 Saturday Campbell River to Schooner Cove

Latitude: 49:1715 N Longitude: 124:08.01 W

Weather: partly cloudy Wind: 135 ⁰ 15-25 kts. Barometer: 1011

Engine Hours: 459 Fuel on Board: 435

Trip Distance/Total: 64/2944

Walked over to check on DW before leaving this morning as she is “on the grid” and a sight to see all high and dry. We’re on our way down the Discovery Cannel by 9:00 and soon out into the Straits of Georgia. Unfortunately, the current will be against us most of the day so it figures to be a long one as we try to get as far south as possible.

Weather is not helping much either with the wind switching to southeast on the nose and piping up to 20 to 25-knots by early afternoon. This makes for some nasty wind waves as the day progresses because of the long fetch extending all the way down to the Straits of Juan de Fuca.

By 2pm we are pounding heavily into short, steep waves on the port bow with spray flying over the pilot house. While uncomfortable for the crew, WS handles her self well but it would have been a good day for stabilizers. Not much in the way of options for bailing out during this part of the passage so we decide to press on and get as far south as possible.

Schooner Cove turns out to be in the right place for a 6PM port of call before dark so we head cross channel back to Vancouver Island. It is rough and rolly all the way till we are able to tuck in behind some islands just off the tight harbor entrance. Schooner Cove is open to the south but uses a huge breakwater to protect the slips and soon we are backed into our assigned slip behind its’ protective wall.

A quick check-in with the harbormaster followed by dinner at the local “Laughing Gull” pub and the evening is about over for a very tired crew.

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8/26 Sunday Schooner Cove to Sidney

Latitude: 48:39.19 N Longitude: 123:24.11W

Weather: overcast Wind: 270⁰ 14 kts. Bar