Okay, so I don’t write often.  Ade is so thorough in his wonderful Captains Log that I feel no need to reiterate his narrative.  My contribution is as ships photographer, that counts doesn’t it?

 

 But friends tell me I have to communicate from the First Mates perspective… so here it is… The Captain is always right.  I must obey my captain!  If you get that down, you have it made.  I’m convinced that is why men go to sea and why they want to do so on their own boat.  That my captain is ¾ German only exacerbates the condition.  That I am Irish makes it all the more ridiculous.  He bought me hearing aids so I couldn’t use the “I didn’t hear you” excuse.  It doesn’t matter, now I pretend I forgot to put them in.  It’s one of the secrets to a marriage that has lasted…gasp…almost 37 years! 

 

UNDERWAY

If you won’t tell him, I will tell you that he is actually a benevolent  captain.  Most decisions are mutual and now that he “knows” this boat  he is much more casual about its operation. 

 

We share the driving duties, but he still does the docking.  With a new harbor almost every night, my confidence level just isn’t there.  I will leave slips, position the boat for anchoring, etc., but usually I am the deck hand in port…and that’s okay.

We decide on our itinerary together, and as we’ve been traveling with Dottie and Ken, often times it’s the girls telling the boys the ports we want to visit.  We read the cruising guides and consult notes from friends of places they recommend.  We plot out a week or so, and then may adjust as the week goes on.  We find a place in the vicinity we learned might be even “better” (such a subjective situation) or with the weather forecast, think might be a wiser choice.  If we find a place we are really enjoying and have no pressing need to move on, we will stay a day or two. 

 

We are in that mode now and I love it.  I like flexibility.  Sometimes it seems we are just moving too fast, but it’s usually with a greater goal in mind…like getting to “do it all”.  Our weather has not been wonderful, nor has it been horrible.  It just never really gets hot or dry.  If we are sitting in a bay and its just pouring, we don’t feel like getting the dinghy down and slogging ashore to a rapidly disappearing beach.  So we do our boat chores, write postcards (or the log), read, cook, listen to music, watch a movie – all really great to do, but you can do that in the next bay, so up comes the anchor and we are off.  When we are in a village of any size we always go ashore and explore – no matter what the weather. 

 

Whales, dolphins, otters, seals, deer and eagles are abundant and we’ve really enjoyed spotting them, although you will have to take my word for it, as my photographs haven’t captured much.  If you look really really really closely and see that puff of spray or shiny black thingy in the water, you can imagine it’s a whale.   Whales are both too fast and too slow for me.  I spot them, usually when they jump and I’m wildly, happily shouting, “whale, whale” and reaching for my camera.  I grab it, finally get it turned on and aim towards the splash and find that it has disappeared.  But I am sooo ready now, poised to capture that magic moment when the magnificent creature leaps again, and this time I am sure, just ahead of the boat as we’ve headed in the direction we think they were going…and I wait, and wait – then Ade shouts, “they’re over heeere” and I scramble over him to see the spouts and then the shiny back and I have my finger ready on the trigger and snap…hoping he is making his turn and will show me his fluke, but I’m too soon…so I’m pressing, urging the camera to get a second shot off as he rears his back and makes that sassy “fluke you” wave… and still I’m pressing the button and finally I hear the shutter…just as the fluke vanishes.  All I get is that itsy bitsy speck of tail as he disappears again.  Argggg.  Repeat.  Repeat.  This can go on for a long time until Ade says, “can we go now?”  I will never be a wild life photographer.     

 

LIFE ASHORE

We are walkers and we like to hike the forest paths and mountain trails.  At first we were concerned about bears…so we “armed” ourselves with Pepper Spray and wore Bear Bells and walked cautiously through the woods, bracing ourselves for the inevitable bear encounter.  We spotted areas they obviously had been, found evidence of their last meal, but never saw them.  We saw a few from the boat those first weeks in Alaska, but since then – nada. They are hiding from us.  I’m willing to wrap myself in honey to see one at this point. 

 

We will do the touristy thing when we are in port, rent a car or walk to the local attraction.  We've done a few museums, Totem (Pole) Parks, Native craft centers, sought out the rivers where we might see the salmon, and generally just sort of absorb the local color.  In major ports, we have to navigate around the cruise ship passengers who travel in mass - but most of our "ports" are secluded anchorages, or tiny towns where we can mix with the locals. 

 

If there is a local pub or decent looking restaurant, we will try them as well.  We've managed to see a few "shows", like the crazy "Days of '98" melodrama about notorious con man Soapy Smith, the Chilkat Dancers in Haines, and even discovered an amazing group, "deering Down" performing in Skagway.  They were fantastic!  Sat through two sets for them.  If you look for them, you will see they take a swing through SE each summer and will perform at a variety of venues. 

 

PROVISIONING

Onto more practical things…Provisioning has been pretty easy up here.  Because we left the boat for almost three weeks and did not have complete confidence in the shore power on the transient dock in Ketchikan we finished off a lot of the food in the freezer and of course all the fresh items in the fridge.  When we came back we had friends with us and were anxious to get back on the water, so we did a quick run through the wonderfully stocked and convenient Safeway near Bar Harbor.  I’ve been dreaming of that store ever since.  They had all our favorite brands; in the right size packages and flavors…you know how it is.  Although we have found everything we need along the way, I would have stashed a few more of the basics in the pantry and freezer, and just needed fresh fruit and veggies along the way.

 

In Juneau the Safeway is not near Harris Harbor, but a Foodland is just across the street and up a block.  Its not a great store.  When we are back in Auke Bay next week we will have a car rental and I will check out the Safeway and revisit the Costco.  Note:  We returned to Auke Bay and indeed found several great places to shop.  We like the Fred Meyers most of all, but the Safeway and Super Bear Market at the Mendenhall Mall are also quite good.

 

Almost every town has a grocery store of some sort and we’ve never had to go for more than a day without bananas, or fresh lettuce or veggies…or God forbid, wine or beer.  We’ve had many pot luck meals with Dottie and Ken, where they caught a fish or crab and we had fresh veggies – or we had the Tri-tip and she had potatoes and made cookies.  Really more than the meal basics are having things on hand for the inevitable Happy Hour gatherings when you are at a dock.  You don’t want to have just one dish that you always bring.  Everyone wants something fresh and different, especially if they’ve been “out” for a while. 

 

We have had a lot more comfort or winter type of food than we imagined, undoubtedly due to the cool wet climate.  Soup, potatoes and chili have made it onto the menu many times, and thankfully, they are easy to store and heat up on rainy blowy nights.  We’ve also been delighted to find artisan breads from bakeries like LaBrea in many places, sometimes fresh, other times frozen.  Most of the stores have an “organic” section with great whole grains and locally grown produce.  We’ve eaten very well indeed…as our snug clothing will attest to. 

 

DINING ASHORE

Dining ashore has been more hit or miss.  While we all agree that our best meals have been on board with each other or friends, we still like to “go out” when the opportunity is present.  We did not find anyplace in BC that was better than OK once we left Vancouver, but then again, it was early in the season and things were just opening up, so we will try again on the way back down.  In Ketchikan we like the Bar Harbor and Ocean View for meals, and the skanky Arctic Bar for sipping and enjoying local color...note, she will send out for delicious fish and chips from the take away stand across the street ..the boys loved that!  In Petersberg it was the Beachcomber Restaurant, it's a few miles out of town, but they send a driver for you.  For lunch we found Northern Lights on the pier, which was also good.  In Juneau we like the Hanger, but there were a few little places in the same building that looked interesting and if we’d had the time probably would have tried.  On the advice of frequent charterers, we tried the Thane Ore House, but found it seriously lacking.  Our last night there took us to the Twisted Fish and we had a very nice meal of fresh local halibut and salmon (which are so amazingly delicious in Alaska). 

 

We also tried the Glacier Bay Lodge for lunch and it was good, but the dinner was expensive, cold and ordinary.  Have an appetizer and a drink and eat on board would be my advice.  In cute little places like Hoonah (The Office Bar) and Pelican (Rosie’s) we knew that it was all about the pubs for a beer and maybe an appetizer.  In Elfin Cove the little grocery store is wonderful, the pub so-so and we found no real restaurants, although there are several lodges that obviously prepare meals for the high spending clients they serve.  It was raining both times we were there, so we were happy to eat onboard.  

 

We are in the Lynn Canal now and on our own as Dottie and Ken opted to do Sitka before heading home for two weeks.  We have not found any other cruising boats, just a few fishermen in delightful Haines and empty local pleasure craft here in Skagway.  So…we dine out.  In Haines we decided on the Lighthouse for dinner and were pleased with it. A very reasonable wine list, good fresh fish, crisp veggies and a killer view of the harbor and the mountains.  For lunch the next day we found Mosey’s, a great little Mexican restaurant in the old fort area that was very popular with the locals.  Good, fresh, and spicy.  The other place that had been recommended was the Bamboo Room/Pioneer Bar and I would save it for lunch of fish  chips or happy hour at best.  Haines is a GREAT town – I will speak to that later, if I have time…but it is the most livable SE Alaskan town for me…I get why people live there, even in the winter.

 

And now, we are in old gold mining “hell hole of the Pacific” – Skagway, with FOUR cruise ships…11,000 people hit the streets (and water/air, etc) on days like this…wow.  We walked thru it as quickly as we could, and at the end of the road found a new place, the Skagway Brewing Company, on Broadway – and it's just great.  Wonderful menu, servers, etc…highly recommended.  Then we hiked four miles in the sunshine.  We took the White Pass & Yukon Railway - they don't serve meals, so we packed a yummy picnic of smoked salmon, summer sausage, cheeses, berries and crackers and a lovely bottle of champagne and enjoyed that as we crested the famed "White Pass" - much to the envy of our fellow passengers who dined on pretzels and water! 

 

We also found a real restaurant, (and there is great evidence of others in Skagway) the Stowaway, just above the small boat harbor.  It had tablecloths.  Really.  And sauces.  It was good, like foodie good. 

 

AND JUST ONE MORE THOUGHT FOR NOW...

But tonight, with the wind now howling at plus 30 knots, and those ships in port, we will dine aboard with a perfect harbor and mountain view.  Lets see, ah, I know – I have a yam from Haines, summer squash from Hoonah, red leaf and romaine lettuce from the great Elfin Cove grocer, frozen halibut from a recent catch and Napa wine.  And for dessert, big plump strawberries and sorbet from the Mountain Market health food store in Haines…. yes life aboard is grand! 

 

Jo's previous article...

 

Well, after a long winter in Seattle, we are finally on our way.  Things started to really happen the week of our christening party-funny how when it absolutely positively has to be done, it is.  The Power of Intention I guess, or Ade’s steely eyed gaze at those who have promised to get ‘er done.  The christening weekend was fantastic, so many dear friends and family made the long journey to get a look at this new “baby” that had taken us over, body and mind.  She seemed to pass muster, some felt she was soooo big, while others look at us and think, "you are going to spend five years together in this tiny space?" and start making bets as to how long the marriage will last.  Even Kei liked her, and as you recall from our last voyage, he is not our boat child.  To us, she is huge – she is the biggest boat we’ve ever owned and we have found a place for everything – in fact, we’ve already lost things…more on that later.  Anyway, we started the weekend with a feast at a Buca di Beppo, which is a hoot.  We gathered around the “Pope’s Table” and a few  tables surrounding it and started ordering…its organized chaos, truly like a big noisy Italian family with people up and down, plates being carried to other tables, etc.  Just the way I like it, I am certain that in a previous life I was an Italian farmers wife, with vines growing, home made brew and a large family…I can just see ordering everyone around, “sit, eat,”  barefoot, hair in a scarf, large chest (that’d be different) and in my imagination - I even had teeth. 

 

The christening party was at the Seattle Yacht Club.  The day started out bright and we thought we’d miss the predicted rain, (which is the standard Seattle forecast) but just as the first guests arrived the skies opened up.  So all 32 of us huddled inside, drank champagne and started nibbling – and just as we were deciding to christen her under umbrellas, the clouds parted and we had glorious sunshine.  We quickly cracked the bottle on the bow, cast off, and were off on a tour of Lake Union and Lake Washington.  It’s a fun place to sightsee; there is the Sleepless in Seattle houseboat, Bill Gates House, floating bridges, etc.  We were an hour late for dinner, but the gracious staff was patient with us and we were able to have a nice dinner and great conversations.  How could this not be the voyage of a lifetime with such hearty wishes for our well being.  Again, we thank you all for coming and for the calls and messages of Bon Voyage.  We wish we could take you all with us. 

 

Life at Sea

We are away.  They finished up the must do items, the rest have been relegated to the fix it in September list.  We took off for Oak Harbor where Dot & Ken (DK from here on out) spent quite a bit of time this winter to position ourselves to head out across the upper end of the Straights of Juan de Fuca to get out to San Juan Island and into Friday Harbor.  We purchased our boat from Friday Harbor Yacht Sales, so it was important that she get to see where the idea of her was hatched.  We love this little town and have visited several times over the years.  Ken was under the weather, so Ade and I went out and enjoyed a meal at Downriggers on the waterfront.  The next day we made our way over to Roche Harbor, the site of the Annual Selene Rendezvous.  It is a wonderful opportunity to meet new people, visit with those you’ve met before and compare boat and cruising notes.  We had a fantastic time and met so many great people.  Some we hope to connect with this summer in Alaska and several that will be going to Mexico in the fall.  We ohh’d and ahh’d over the fantastic details of each boat – of the six 43’s, boats “just like ours” – none were just like ours – one had the “two master stateroom” layout that we have, but their main salon was quite different.  We marveled at how Howard Chen can manifest all of our dreams into reality in such small spaces.  Each of us is certain that we have the best boat…it is the best, for us.  I also am thankful that our men cannot design wives, Lord knows what we’d look like.  On Saturday night just as the “banquet” was finishing up, Big Bear friends arrived to spend a few nights aboard our buddyboat, DK's "Dreamweaver".  We had a lovely visit with them and a nice walk through the Sculpture Garden and over to the Mausoleum.  Most of the Selene fleet took off early Sunday, but those of us left behind had a dock party alongside the very lovely “Voyager”, a 55’ beautifully outfitted to take on the world.  I have no doubt that the Dobbes will continue to log the miles and show us the way.

 

The next few days were spent cruising around the San Juan Islands, re-visiting old coves we’d explored by ferry and car,  and finding new ones that are really only accessible by private boat.  It was a nice shakedown cruise.  DK slipped over to Vancouver Island and a few of the Gulf Islands, while we tended to final details.  Ken didn’t really want to bring DW to downtown Vancouver, but we wanted to go there to add the provisions, (honestly, it was mostly wine and alcohol that you cannot bring over the border legally) so they drove our car from Anacortes and we did a bit of sightseeing and maintenance, Ken finding parts for his heating system that were not available in the states.  They nicely put the car in storage for us, then by way of the Gulf Islands, joined us in Pender Cove – where we celebrated with a wonderful bottle of champagne (or two) the beginning of our Alaskan odyssey. 

 

Ade’s log probably goes into detail of the journey from island to island, I have not read it yet, but I will tell you that my favorites have been the trip up Jervis Inlet to Princess Louisa Inlet and the truly noisy, and therefore aptly named, “Chatterbox Falls”.  Jervis itself is jaw dropping…sheer cliffs with a pine forest right down to the waters edge, those trees clinging to life, then backed by snow capped mountain peaks.  We laughing have decided that much of this area is the prettiest of coves on our beloved Big Bear Lake, at sea level with the snow-capped Sierras (think road to Mammoth Mountain) or Rockies close in behind.  But it’s better.  If it were just a wee bit warmer we’d stay forever. 

 

Our journey through Jervis to Malibu Rapids, involved  lively debates between navigators Dottie and Ade, whose Nobeltec systems showed different times for slack tide.  Therefore, to be safe, we arrived extra early for the earliest predicted slack tide.  We were still debating it, like mid-sentence, when our own Captain Chaos Ken took Dreamweaver and just went for it...whoa boy, they ripped right around that little island that blocks the entrance and disappeared.  We looked at each other and said, what the heck, and followed .  What we hadn’t heard was his radio conversation with a tug on the other said that advised that it was a clear shot. 

 

Once at the end of Princess Louisa, we were delighted to find several boats tied up to the dock – a couple on a Nordhavn 43 that we’d met a few years ago while researching that beautiful yacht.  They were traveling with another couple on a Nordhavn 36 that DK met on the dock in Friday Harbor a week ago.  There were sailors, and fast boats and it was a lovely welcoming community. 

 

We did a tiny bit of hiking, but tales of the impossible hike up the mossy sheer mountain to a fallen down cabin didn’t interest us as much as the prospect of, now get this, putting on shorts and tanks and sitting in the SUN on the deck reading.  You cannot imagine what that is like after so many months of  either rain, or freezing but slightly sunny days.  It was bliss.  DK, on the other hand, having been told that it was impossible to get up the cliff, forged ahead.  It was nearly twilight before they returned, I had already arranged a search party, even finding a dog to lead the way. 

 

We decided to press on the next morning and head up a little closer to Desolation Sound – another favorite place that we’d visited twenty one years ago on a charter trip.  Before we left, we got to talking to the experts at the dock about the disparity between the tide charts on the computer systems.  We all pulled out printed books, all different, and various versions of the Nobeltec charts – and were more confused that ever.  You know how Ade is about  these things, “its supposed to be science for gawd's sakes, how can it be so different” – he likes answers…but what the heck, we all at least decided within a hour of the right time to take the rapids, so one by one, we left, each skipper smug in his knowledge that they had the right time…and they all did.  Seems we had a very small tide and the gap was wide.  They have since worked it all out and now almost agree on the best times to take the many rapids we encounter.

 

Desolation Sound is a very popular group of islands off the BC Mainland. There are a few cabins scattered about and the bays are shallow enough for the water to warm up nicely in the summer….but it was way too early for me to even consider getting in the water, the average water temperature is less than 50 degrees F.  We didn’t have a lot of time to explore the upper reaches of the area like we did the last time, but we managed a night at lovely Grace Harbor and arrived early enough for a nice dinghy explore and an encounter with a group of kids from an alternative school in Vancouver who were on day 10 of a wilderness trip.  They were swimming!  They were each sleeping on their own in little pup tents, and there are bears!  I am such a wuss.  One of the girls did confess to being ready to kill for a cheeseburger.  Our next stop was Melanie Cove in the Prideaux Haven area and we did manage a hike, although I did not find the apple orchard or the remains of “Mikes” cabin, the place so beautifully described by Muriel W. Blanchett in the Curve of Time.  Dottie bought the book and had not yet started it, so I grabbed it and haven’t let it go. If you have not read this book, pick it up.  Not only does it describe the islands and environment of the southern part of our journey, it also tells the story of this incredible family.  Muriel and her husband purchased a small motoryacht in the early 1920's, and he apparently drowned while out on it one day.  So there she was, widowed  with five small children . She went on to spend many summers with her children (and dog) in that smallboat exploring the inlets, islands and coves.  What an amazing woman, and what wonderful adventures they had. She writes with such humor and poetry, with just enough mysticism to really captivate me.  Poor Dottie will never get this book back (until I find a copy to buy!)