| 1 | Clean the glass -- use Windex and/or rubber cement thinner (Heptane, don't use Hexane--it's a neurotoxin). |
| 2 | Lay glass on a black non-lint surface (vinyl will work, or even terrycloth). |
| 3 | Keep getting lint off. |
| 4 | May need to shim glass into frame to fit, if the glass is a little small. We sometimes put a piece of matboard under the bottom edge of the glass. |
| 5 | Put hinged mat and foamcore board in (Picture has already been mounted in the mat). |
| 6 | Turn over and check for lint/hair/smears. |
| 7 | Tack lightly with framing points or (better) 1 inch x17 wire brads. A tool for inserting either of these is available from United Mfrs. Supplies. |
| 8 | Check again for lint -- drafting tape can be useful in picking it up. |
| 9 | Finish tacking about five inches apart. |
| 10 | Check again for lint. |
| 11 | Acid-free backing paper: cut larger than the frame. Wet it down, and let it sit a moment while you do the next step. |
| 12 | Put Elmer's glue onto the back of the frame, and smear it out well to the edge. I moisten my fingers and use them. |
| 13 | Place the backing paper over the glue; carefully tamp/press down the edges, and let dry. |
| 14 | Sand off the edges when dry, to remove excess paper cleanly; sand away from the center. |
| 15 | Drill holes in the back of the frame about 1/4 of the way from the top. |
| 16 | You can thread a soft, clear plastic (tygon/nalgene/whatever from OSH or other hardware store) tube over the wire for ease of carrying so the wire doesn't hurt your hand. Make the piece about four inches long. |
| 17 | Thread stainless-steel twisted wire into the metal hanging bracket and make a square knot; then wind the loose end around the main wire and trim the wire. |
| 18 | Screw the wire onto the frame. |
| 19 | Supplies: United Mfrs. Supplies 800-645-7260. |